An All-Out Test to Determine Finger Flexor Critical Force in Rock Climbers
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Diagnosis of finger flexor pulley injury in rock climbers: A systematic review.
BACKGROUND Closed injury to the finger flexor pulley system is found frequently in rock climbers. There are no evidence-based published guidelines on the diagnosis and treatment of these injuries. OBJECTIVES THE PRESENT SYSTEMATIC REVIEW WAS UNDERTAKEN TO ANSWER THE FOLLOWING QUESTIONS: what are the most commonly recommended diagnostic criteria for finger flexor pulley injury in rock climbers...
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Flexor tendon pulley ruptures are the most common injury in rock climbers. Therapeutic standards usually include a prolonged use of taping applied as a replacement for the lost pulley in a circular fashion at the base of the proximal phalanx. Our biomechanical considerations, however, suggest a new taping method, the H-tape. The purpose of the study is to evaluate whether this new taping method...
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The nature and degree of fatigue in muscles that control finger position during repeated sustained efforts in rock climbing have not been described. The purpose of this study was to identify changes in maximum hang time and forearm electromyogram (EMG) during repeated maximum duration hangs from a simulated rock feature. A second objective was to determine the effect of different recovery times...
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Performance rock climbing places high demands on the hand and may lead to specific injuries. In a "one-finger-pocket" hold, the interphalangeal joints remain in 20-40 degrees flexion. To increase the maximum force of the holding finger by the quadriga effect, the interphalangeal joints of the adjacent fingers become almost maximally flexed. Holding a "one-finger-pocket" with the ring or small f...
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The sport of rock climbing has undergone a significant change in recent times with technically harder climbs being attempted more often. This has meant that climbers have taken to more training including weight training, using artificial climbing walls and the more traditional 'bouldering' i.e. training on natural outcrops and boulders. This increase in standards has led to injuries associated ...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance
سال: 2021
ISSN: 1555-0265,1555-0273
DOI: 10.1123/ijspp.2020-0637